This blog is a continuation of my tasting notes following a recent forage in southern Germany and the Pfalz as judge at a wine-show. Here is part 3. If you haven’t done so already, check out the previous two posts for further insight into the region that for me, at least, produces the world’s finest rich, dry Rieslings.
Stephan Attmann is a driven winemaker. His muscles are forever tense, anticipating the next movement; eyes darting anticipating the next thought; fingers constantly moving heralding the next turn of the dice as he challenges the rubrics of dry German Riesling by employing protective cool stainless steel ferments and inoculated yeasts for the ‘traditional’ Dr. Deinhardt range; juxtaposed against a more laissez-faire approach to his own Von Winning line-up of wines. The Von Winning wines are, to say the least, controversial. Barriques-new and used are employed throughout, as are ambient yeast fermentations, extended lees time and the occasional slip into malolactic fermentation.
2010 Ungeheuer Kabinett Trocken: precise, minerally and lean, yet a little too severe and thin for all of the acidity 83
2010 Ungeheuer Spatlese Trocken: more weight here, but a very tightly coiled highly reductive style; little in the way of pleasure 85
2008 Langenmorgen GG (stainless steel): aromas typical of the Pfalz’s yellow stone fruits, yet very reductive and too tight in a way that makes the wine feel anorexic, given high acid vintage. Long and penetrative 86
2009 Spiess (Rupertsberg): Broader palate shape, with the tang of nectarine. Saline and palpably energetic, serving the richer `09 vintage well 90
Von Winning Dragon ’10: a nice drink; yet the severity of the dry finish without the breadth of time and lees work, makes the wine feel a little pinched. Certainly not a patch on the Burklin-Wolf entry-level 83
Von Winning Win Win ’10: more open yet, still, rather clenched. Peachy / nectarine 84
Von Winning Paradiesgarten ’10: sandstone Deidesheim vineyard: peachy, nectarine, mirabelle and flint which, despite (new) big wood tannins and the breadth of texture that raising in larger oak brings; still manages to come across as highly austere 88
Reiterpfad ’10: more material here due to clay and richer alluvial soils. Seems to have benefited the brittle ’10 style. Mouthfilling. Expansive. Long and tangy yet without great complexity. Not at all severe 89
Grainhubel ’10: mirabelle and smoke with a hint of wild strawberry. This is only the second wine to date that has moved from the tangy yellow fruit spectrum so typical of the Pfalz, to sour red fruited notes. Dry and terse, but not too severe. Not particularly long, but a nice drink 88
Koningsbacher Olberg ’10: loose. Not of region therefore shan’t rate.
Langenmorgen GG ’10: new barrique tones are very strong here, yet there is a tropical (especially pineapple-scented) note (likely from the toast), leesy curd flavours and forceful minerality that tempers the sweetness. Tangy, oaky and – if you can get your head around this expression – long 89
Pechstein GG ’10: peach aromas, phenolic texture; incredible linearity driven by juicy rather than harsh acidity, meshed with wonderful lacy length. Profound wine, with no perceptible oak here yet some barrique apparently, albeit, three year old 94