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Meal of the Year

By Wed, Dec 29, 2010 12:48PM UTC View Comments

I’m sitting with cloying palms and dripping brow following a barrage with winemakers the night before, and here come eight varieties of oysters — saline flats and nervy fines de claires among them — from the clutch of a tattooed butch, who offers them with brio and insight into sea temperatures and harvesting schedules, not...

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