This is a piece of nebbiolo heaven. As this black, blushed, hard-skinned, slightly elliptical grape makes wines which assail the palate, yet when you “get it”, open a new range of flavours and textural sensations to wine drinkers.

This is the experience of my wine tour group. The enlightenment comes around the lunch or dining table as small drops of nebbiolo fall into large glasses as a procession of typical Piedmontese foods enters the spheres of food tourists’ minds.

Not all tastings were conducted over lunch/dinner and I made the exception when visiting the mountain at Barbaresco, the home of Angelo and Gaia Gaja.

We were also there to connect the dots between slinky Barbaresco and the more solid Barolo regional wines. Hmmm.

The morning was warm and hazy, Alba fogs and the morning collection of mist dusted the hillslopes .

The pre-lunch shimmer of this thin blue cloud over the patchwork of nebbiolo, barbera and dolcetto vineyards is a usual site. After then it vaporises.

Both Europe and this Langhe region remained in an unusual stretch of warm weather in early October.

It was 24 oC as we filed into the courtyard at Gaja at 10:30.

Gaja entry-understated

The greens of mid-summer have gone and the vine leaves morph to duller colours, the early harvest 2011 vendemmia is in, vines rest, the sandy-white clay is turning to dust with the low humidity and drying conditions.

At Gaja all the harvest is in before October 4, winery floor freshly-washed and no longer smelling of grape juice, fermentations are ceasing, and grape skins are sitting in contact with their newly-formed wines to undergo the slowly cooling maceration process (just sit in contact with skin and seed for 20-30 days before separation at the press).

This is modern nebbiolo with more tender tannins but equivalent ageability to the great 1958 wines and the two decades afterwards.

The tank farms are quiet and one would hardly know that each shiny vessel is filled to capacity.

Sonia Franco leads our tour. She fixes on the original family subterranean barrel rooms (with progressive additions) which hold both large Slovenian (2-5000 litres) and barriques (225) of French allier style. At tastings though this oak is barely detectable.

Our visitors also share in Gaja’s contemporary celebration of Spanish ancestry amongst the life and events which led to the 150th year of business two years ago.

The posters say so much about this family who aimed for greatness in their winelands along the river Tanaro.

Never take the display down Angelo!

And I connecting with the relationship between great older bottles of Gaja and the British fine wine auctioneer Sothebys.

Auction Times

In the glassy Castello tasting room Gaia Gaja presented four nebbiolo: two Barbaresco, two Barolo. A tasting with balance and thought to focus Australian palates.

Gaia Gaja-the writer

The Gaja Barbarescos DOCG 2008 (14.5%) and 2001 (14%): polarising tastes as 2008 is a ripe year with exuberent flavour, tastes of ripe tobacco which are easy to connect over, mouthfeel which rolls the savoury earth fruits with the ample acidity;  2001 is a vintage slowly unwinding, always showing backbone when I tasted in the past, never generous, taut, herbs, black fruits so not under-ripe; just a contrasting wine.

Gaia says” 2008 is our drinkable young Barbaresco. The summer was particularly dry and the flavour came easily. A beautiful vintage. It has perfume for aroma, the palate has layers, even soil character. The 2001 has transparent colour now, a colder year, mature but with a long tail of fruit, it is delicate”.

Gaja Barbaresco 2008 DOCG

Gaja Barbaresco 2001 DOCG

Gaia is gently expressing the soul of Barbaresco nebbiolo, its understated character, silkiness and therefore contrast with the same grape grown in Barolo when the texture becomes more emphatic. A discovery point for the touring tasters, particularly without food.

The Gaja Barolo-origin Conteisa 2007 (14.5%) and Sperss 1999 (14%) are firstly fabulous single vineyard wines-from sites which speak of the character of nebbiolo, but the more sizeable wines, opposite to Barbaresco. Conteisa is being carried along by the product of global warming, so the fruit is expressed in every direction, roses, this brings about a lot more roundness on the palate, immediate acceptance. Sperss stands out like a beacon, power but maturing aromas bring out nebbiolo character, tar, tea, earth, drying chewy tannin mixed up with high complementary acidity.

Gaia says ” Conteisa 2007 is a year for density of fruit, the expression is very apparent, then the palate gives softness. Firm wine but rounded from ripeness. For Sperss we like to think maturity comes 10-15 years from bottle date, so this wine is now just entering its maturing plateau, so it is now approachable”.

Gaja Conteisa 2007 Langhe Nebbiolo DOC

Gaja Sperss 1999 Langhe Nebbiolo DOC

Piedmontese nebbiolo looks to be on a golden run: after declared vintages in 1961, 1964, 1967, then 1970, 1971, 1974, 1978, 1979, followed by late 80s magic, 1988, 1989, 1990, again late 90s, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, then the big stretch, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, now 2011.

All that remains is how to conquer this high acid, high tannin, moderately light bodied, textural, savoury grape style that leaves enlightenment until the end of a visit to Gaja in Barbaresco.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker, educator, tour leader www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

There were grapes to discover. They were relatively new to an enduring Aussie palate but oh so ancient to the Sicilians in the know.

And the number of vineyard investments, many non-Sicilian, are growing steadily as time passes is a sign of more prosperity to come.

A quick look at the vineyard landscape would not suggest an inviting environment for cultivating its natural red inhabitants, mainly nerello mascalese and its lesser cousin nerello capuccio.

Over eons the volcano Etna above has showered the countryside with both eruptive lava, and sometimes daily doses of ash powder.

The vine environment looks more lunar than viticultural – uninviting, cactus-strewn, rugged, craggy laval monuments sited between, amongst and encircling some vineyard sites. Lava rock is the fence of choice.

This has not denied Etnan development in the least; the lava weathers well, the soils are limiting but presumably sufficiently fertile. The local water is certainly mineralised!

Viticulture is not new here, but is undergoing rejuvenation of the same varieties which have existed for over a century, or more, and probably since antiquity, given the past Roman and Greek influences.

The best influence is the modern thinking: forget the crazy DOC/DOCG system founded by traditionalists and therefore held to be inflexible, and labelling as IGT (Sicilia IGT) indicates contemporary, real-world Sicilian wine (the variety is revealed).

So the process of recognising “crus” or the Sicilian equivalent as “contrade” around the Etna DOC is accelerating nicely, with a greater recognition also according to elevation, starting at 600 m, extending to 1000 m.

Obviously there is greater viticultural risk ripening nerellos at 1000 m, protracted harvest dates, slow times to physiological ripeness, while the few examples I tasted demonstrate greater aromatic character than their equivalents grown at lower heights.

Contrade of Linguaglossa

Contrade (crus) of Castiglione di Sicilia

Passopisciaro’s tasting host Letizia Patane presented three 2010 nerello mascalese from differing contrade (there are four):

Rampante of 2 ha (1000 m), Sciaranouva, meaning new lava flow site, these vines are 50 years going older, (800 m) and Porcaria, meaning ugly thing.

To find Passopisciaro-go up the hill!

These wines are sold as single vineyard contrade.

Ramparte showed a lot of flowers, roses, small floral notes, attractive cool-grown influence, sweet in the mouth (the only one to do so), long in fruitiness, distinctive acid and tannin-acid balance; Sciaranouva showed funk (natural yeast effect), some oak aromas, volumes of nose, then black fruits palate, fine and long; Porcaria showed red fruits on nose, black fruits on palate, warming alcohol, yet retains its elegance.

Ramparte contrade-single vineyard nerello

What is the taste anatomy of nerello mascalese. Not a heavily coloured varietal wine, in sync with pinot nero or nebbiolo there. The nose aromatics range from red cherry, black cherry, wild yeast effects, tobacco, earth, spearmint and a range of herbal nuances.

Palate: never full bodied, closer to light-bodied, more textured with a length of flavour which needs to be supported by drying tannin and rising acidity (nebbiolo similarities), oak is subliminal and hardly detectable; minerality on finish is a given. Savouriness.

Sensations in this varietal rise when tasted while eating; in drinking solo the flavours are present but the tannins will often appear unbalanced.

So here is a process for enjoying Etna IGT varietals.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

The Gambero Rosso may have its ideas with three glasses and the like, anointing wines from many regions.

Italian standards continue to rise and much of it is better winemaking. Hopefully there is more attention towards eliminating brett.

In one Florentine wine bar I had to leave wine; after ordering three glasses, older Chianti (1998), current vintage (2009) and an expensive (8 euros glass) pinot nero, I just gave up. Too bretty to drink and no varietal flavour left to enjoy.

At the top end of Tuscany there is a big challenge between IGT and traditional DOCG (Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino).

Tradition has producers strapped in as top sangiovese wines ought to stay as just that. Not a bad outcome really.

It was simply stupidity that the Montalcino producers chose to covet the idea that dilution of Rosso di Montalcino with international varieties become a right. Their vote last month failed thankfully and does not need revisitation.

Just because Chianti Classico contains some.

It would be better if this were revoked and all Chianti styles revert to being 100% sangiovese or native red varieties (colorino and canaiolo nero) to strip out the influence of international varieties. Those extra wines can carry the IGT status with impunity.

Many IGT reds impressed, and here is a revisit this month during my Italy Wine & Food Tour of some leading styles – in order of preference.

Ornellaia 2008; 14.5% (USD 250-trattoria price-Rignana); ++++1/2; deep colour, impressive, cedar, leaf, ripe, spicy fruit, a total nose package, palate layered with oak and fruit, the backbone is cabernet, the subtleties rise up as it evolves, many flavours though few protrude and the finish closes off with authority.

Ornellaia 2007; 14.5% (USD 250-trattoria price-Rignana); ++++1/2; deep colour though losing its purples, cedar box oak gives nose sweetness; cabernet expressed as mint/catmint, lots of drying cabernet tannin, juicy drinks, very homogeneous and full-bodied, a powerful drink to enjoy. Memorable.

Ornellaia-terrific IGT Bolgheri

Solaia 2006; 13.5% (USD 280-Florentine restaurant price); ++++1/2; good deep colour though losing its purples, nose heavily aromatic from very sexy oak use, on the top of that is spicy-ripe cabernet fruit, ethereal and heavenly aromas showing an enjoyable vintage and barrel age residence time, youthful on the palate, powdery, drying tannin, palate still tight, acidity still stoic, long aging wine yet to soften.

Mormoreto 2008; 14.% (USD 65); ++++; great colour, what an emphatic wine, lot of oak aging character for 14 months, nose power, spiciness of correct ripeness, fruit has aromatics too, enticing, palate very powerful, nice dryness  yet heaps of tannin for longer aging, yet to be complex but not a consideration for this fresh long liver. Bravo.

Mormoreto-top Rufina IGT

Sassacaia 2004; 14% (USD 345-Florentine restaurant price); +++1/2; aged colour, some browns, nose mature, earthy, spearmint, leafy, bonox, palate lifts, complexity, body and prune flavour of mature grapes is very emphatic, earthy aged tones, soft all round with oak recessive, no signs of drying out but mature.

Guado al Tasso 2001; 13.5% (USD 110); +++1/2; aged colour, browns, some russet shows mature colour, could be brighter, nose earthy, damp soil, fungal, mature leafy fruit has gone into its bottle-complex phase, palate similarly mature, tertiary prune and bonox flavours, drying but not dried out.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

 At that past time I interviewed Ryan and tasted the wines which catapulted a young local Margaret River man from Flying Fish Cove winemakers into the national light.

He was both humble and helpful about his wines as regards the style.

 One wine was a recent unwooded chardonnay (2010); at the time it was a bit of a worry about where the judges were thinking, yet also an endorsement of where the fruit in this region goes even uncluttered with barrels and little lees.

 The Wine Society show some vision as Ryan was the recipient of some funds to travel elsewhere to hone both knowledge (sensory that is) and skills.

 He chose Burgundy, with an emphasis on chardonnay.

 Out of the fray comes Flying Fish Cove Wildberry Reserve Chardonnay 2010; 12.5%; (USD 30); ++++1/2; superbly pale which is the demand today for top chardonnay from any place, restrained, lemon oak cedar, hints of funk which blew away, good nose which makes you work as it evolves over 6 or so hours, palate composed so fruit is not obvious, there is more artefact wrapped around flavour bits, no primary hit is overdone, then drying oak and palate, acid linearity, a fruit lift at the finish and a great coil of dryness.

Flying Fish Cove-wildberry reserve Chardonnay 2010

 Masterly. A good year. OMG alcohol is low. 

 Ryan says” “The evolution and development of Margaret River Chardonnay is an ambivalent activity that is, I believe, we are yet to find the correct matching of its regionality, sub-regional terroir and clonal/varietal attributes.”

Many people such as Di Cullen, Mike Peterkin, Robert Mann and a host of other makers in the region are down the path of searching. Some have a result which pleases. 

 He says “From the iconic styles of the mid to late 90′s of bigger, broader and richer wines, to the current trend of restraint, elegance and refinement, this evolution will continue for, I believe, some time yet.”

“Are we dreaming if we think we can replicate the finesse and style of the world’s finest region, Burgundy?

With Margaret River now being included in the same breath as old world leaders of Chardonnay production, we at Flying Fish Cove are focusing our energy on delivering a style that incorporates all of the above factors, and delivers a long drawn arrow through the heart of these attributes to begin the definition of our style of premium Margaret River Chardonnay production.”

  The 2010 Wildberry Reserve Chardonnay is hand selected from a long term Wilyabrup grower, based on clonal attributes, acid balance and flavour/sugar balance.

 Picking the fruit just under the 12 Baume mark allowed the eventual free run juice to show restraint and elegance, minimal colour and provide a tract of acid straight down the centre of the palate.

 The juice was then settled over night, racked and then “dirtied up” with collected juice solids and placed onto 8 barrels, 2 of which were new French oak, 4 were 1 year old French oak and 2 were 2 year old.

 Fermentation was undertaken with a selected yeast strain and upon completion barrels were stirred monthly until desired texture and balance were achieved.”

 The wine: was it what we thought it would be?

 Do we yet have the balance of all the attributes that will truly begin to carve our own piece of history within this great region?

 Well I think we are beginning to compile things together, play on the strengths of the vineyard and show respect to the fruit.

Lower alcohol, fine acid balance and subliminal oak with delicate fruit to me show both a respect to the sub region of Willyabrup and also to the finest producers in the world of this style.”

 I think Ryan Aggiss and the team around him is on the money.

 Many Australian makers now chase this mix; more angular acidity is a feature-even if it is to compete with the ever-present and overly acid New Zealand sauvignon blanc which is bearing out like a rash.

 It brings new meaning to the word full flavoured for chardonnays at 13.5% alcohol and above (Leeuwin?)

 Flying Fish Cove Wildberry Reserve 2009; 14.5%; (USD 30);+++++; not super deep colour, but with purples, composed, nose savoury, importantly no herbal notes so the ripeness was nailed, tobacco and cinnamon, oak recessive, palate compact, again savoury, impressive tannins that give backbone, not extra dryness, in a good space with fruit holding the wine a long way on the finish. Impressive.

Expect to see this brand star.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Eight Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon barrel samples

So the annual barrel series auction conducted on October 15 is a time to celebrate all Coonawarra cabernets. Buy some if you wish by having a bid. It only has to be five dozen. Average auction price per bottle is around USD 60.

This year eight makers are participating so I had the occasion recently to taste a barrel sample of each cabernet 2010. Wines will be bottled around February 2012 and delivered to the happy bidders in May next year.

Wines are tasted and reviewed in order of my preferences. In all cases as a style of cabernet which has good potential to age as that is the primary construct to hold an auction of the region’s most ageworthy grape.

The anchor flavour in this 2010 cabernet group is mint, subtle, menthol like, sweet, green, wintergreen, just a lovely sweet fruit  flavour that conveys refreshment from the wine. It bobbed up many times as an underlying cabernet flavour.

Another pleasing character about both this vintage and the means of making these wines, and selecting the barrels for auction, is the path beyond just big, boisterous fruity wines displaying oak dominance or a large aging-in-barrel footprint.

I appreciated wines with ripe fruit aromas (they all had it) and integrated nose character, little poking out, and an element of savouriness on the palate to be accommodating towards food. Tannin of course is a given, that’s cabernet.

Tasting cabernets

Majella barrel; ++++1/2; aromatic oak which emanates sweetness; black fruits and black pepper, oak sweetness, seaweed, very, very, tight tannins which are good, compact as a palate, mint, aniseed, a very composed wine, like the medium body; 2017-2020.

Parker barrel; ++++; spicy, earth, savoury, grand oak sweetness, all about subtlety, chocolate oak on palate, the ripeness is spot on and the spice/savoury traits say this has been excellently thought through in production, softer style, not very tannic so able to be drunk earlier; 2015-2017.

Brands barrel; ++++; earth, cedar, seaweed, oyster shell (developing complexity), oak, actually woody, mint and plum, plump in the mouth, not an oak day but firm-forming tannins which stamps it as cabernet, lots of concentration,  2017-2020.

Zema barrel; ++++; cumin/spice, savoury, oyster shell, complex and smart, slippery in the front of palate, glycerol, very ripe, richer, high alcohol style, mint, high in tannin and long backbone, 2018-2022.

Wynns barrel; ++++; cedar, berry, oak concentration, big on oak and quite drying, good, dusty fruit, warm on the finish, trending towards 14%, will always have oak presence, drink 2018-2020.

Katnook barrel; ++++; earth and plum, low oak perceived, some good funk, savoury, has the classic mint/spice, lots of tannin, tight and warm, about 13.5%, drink 2017-2020.

The Menzies barrel; +++1/2; cinder oak, very sweet nose, lots of tannin and syrupy texture from ripeness and alcohol, has lots of dryness and brooding flavour to find, a long time until it softens, mild flavour lots of extract, drink 2018-2020.

Lindemans barrel; +++1/2; leafy, straight varietal nose, currant plus oak, slippery in texture from high ripeness, big cedary palate, lot of fruit and mint, fruit style, drink 2017-2019.

Bids for any parcels are entertained by auctioneer Mark De Garis 0n +61 8 87372695.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

The wines have always carried the livery of an Australian critter-the sulphur-crested cockatoo, and remained respectable value for money. Geoff Merrill was the original creator.

Their origin lies in the South Australian Riverland, now better known as the Murray Valley, and included in the clutch was a terrific sparkling, non-vintage white. The bubbles range has been expanded now.

About a year ago, a distressed Cockatoo Ridge was bought by the Riverina-based Beelgara wine group, and now it is flying up there with new life.

I caught up with Cockatoo Ridge’s South Australian-based winemaker, Rod Hooper, during the recent Fine Wine Partners swoop in Brisbane with their Festival for the Senses extravaganza.

Feast of the Senses Day-for Cockatoo Ridge

Cockatoo Ridge Pinot Grigio 2010; 13% (USD 9.50); +++, has bright colours for this grape which may go brassy, not this one, lots of pear on the nose to remind that this is varietal, then a clean, dry, fruit-cup taste with lots of nectarine grip and juciness. Drink very cold, it’s rejuvenating.

Cockatoo Ridge Pinot Grigio 2010

Cockatoo Ridge Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010; 12% (USD 9.50); +++, is pale as I’d expect, very much in sync with modern crisp whites, it shows the lower alcohol and zippy acidity I’d expect of this style, has the greenness that the palate needs to remain acid-austere, it clicks, 80% semillon and still tight.

Cockatoo Ridge Chardonnay 2010; 12.5% (USD 9.50); +++, has pleasant appeal, the modern type, unwooded, but succulent and not over-peachy from six months on its yeast garnering up some nice nutty flavours, good austerity which new chardonnay drinkers (no fatness) and allround good stuff.

Cockatoo Ridge Moscato 2011;  6% (USD 9.50); +++1/2; this wine sings, the new vintage made from frontignan blanc, a muscat variant, oozy, juicy, low alc in sync with the style which pleases drinkers of the wine, smaller headaches, lots of barley sugar ripeness flavours, slightly fizzy (frizzante as the Italians say), clean and neat (120 g/L sugars too).

Cockatoo Ridge Chardonnay NV; 11% (USD 9.50); +++; the standard bearer for the brand, value bubbles, this a blend of two chardonnay years, 2010 and 2011, a good sparkled white wine, some brassy colour because 10% of the wine is shiraz, good fizz grip and fair dryness (14 g/L residual), closed with the resealable Zork cap which has gained popularity. Anything without cork is a blessing.

Cockatoo Ridge Black NV; 13.5% (USD 9.50); ++++; a terrific wine, jammy notes and creaming over with flavour, just great, a cabernet merlot shiraz blend with a range of great components (some Coonawarra 2007) to give it a value proposition. Sweetness is 35 g/L.

Cockatoo Ridge Shiraz 2008; 13.5% (USD 9.50); +++; competently-made, lots of aromas of plummy shiraz which is the varietal personality in warm growing regions, plump in the mouth and softly drying. Has cred and flavour, drink now only.

Cockatoo Ridge Cabernet Merlot 2009; 13.5% (USD 9.50); +++; minty, sweet anise and jam, low oak on nose, palate has black fruits and gentle tannins, red wine for those enjoying milder cabernet or repeat business, plump and fruity.

Cockatoo Ridge Cabernet Merlot 2009

Rod Hooper says: “My winemaking philosophy is to make technically very good wines that have honest expressions of varietal fruit” which is a pretty good quote from a fellow who once made wine for an Australian wine college.

And that’s how the wines come up.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

At least there was some stability in these Piedmontese varieties used, as I write the makers of Rosso di Montalcino (their second tier red) are voting on the adulteration of its sangiovese content (currently 100%) with international varieties (cabernet, merlot, syrah et al).

This is a pretty pointless exercise. Just because some producers were supposedly caught out dosing up their Brunello di Montalcino (the big tier wine) in the Brunellogate scandal with the 2005s, does not give cause to legitimise the practice across the region.

It’s quite amazing how vested interests take over when these insecurities are exposed.

The same producers can take properties on the coast around Bolgheri or Maremma where the international varieties are excelling in their viticulture, and proceed to make these new wine styles.

Adding international varieties to sangiovese might improve the style but it also dilutes, or adjusts the natural texture of this grape. And after all, what has Brunello got to sell. Sangiovese grosso if I recall!

The same discussion goes for Piedmont. The most respectable and respected wines of the region are nebbiolo-bound. Some Langhe nebbiolo may contain up to 5% barbera, a native grape of the same ilk (non-international) and that is more likely a positive aspect.

Conversely it would not hurt Barbera d’Alba or Barbera d’Asti to contain 5% nebbiolo as a small positive contribution, adding much needed tannin.

Although the 2007 Barolos and Barbarescos are trickling into Australia, there are still many 2006s on sale.

Gavi di Gavi (Pio Cesare) 2010; 12.5% (USD 28); +++; nice wine, lemon fresh, unwooded cortese grape, pale and full of expression, has great natural character and clean lines of flavour, nervy acidity, yes, but that is what’s needed. Four months lees aging.

Dolcetto d’Alba Visadi (Domenico Clerico) 2008; 13.5% (USD 31.75) ; ++++; terrific wine, fabulous nose of obviously ripe fruit which carries drinker interest, lovely soft crunch in the mouth alongside the racy acidity, volumes of fruit and attraction. Outstanding example from Monforte d’Alba.

Langhe Rosso Ill Nebbio (Pio Cesare) 2010; 13.5% (USD 44) ; +++; this is pretty simple, cherry-plum fruit, aromatic in fruit and therefore very modern (carbonic maceration), little presence of the black fruit aromas which I associate with nebbiolo; earlier harvested fruit is the answer, stainless steel-made, a few chewy tannins as usual, a good scope for the 2010 vintage though.

Barbaresco Magno (San Silvestro) 2007; 13.5%; (USD 40.50); +++1/2; modest aromas but very fresh and modern, little oak aroma but very understated, large cask aged; taste has silk rather than grip for nebbiolo, shows how well Barbaresco performs in a sunny year with such plush tannins; they are there but they are not there! Texture soft, flavour plus, plummy then final dryness.

Barbaresco Magno by San Silvestro 2007

Barolo (Pio Cesare) 2006; 14.5%; (USD 125); ++++1/2 ; a big wine now developing personality; lots of barley sugar aroma of maturing Barolo at high ripeness, starting to dry out and show its power, partly traditional style of multi-vineyard blends; plus the oak. Now tasted four times since release, every time better and increased depth; a great ager.

Barolo from Pio Cesare 2006

Barolo (Elio Altare) 2006; 14%; (USD 151); +++1/2; a single commune producer from La Morra, this a blend of La Morra and Castiglione Falletto, shows lots of age as nebbiolo can, leaf, tobacco, the herbal notes which keep its aromatic attractiveness, lean and tannic on taste, now on the drying out phase, drying tannins of nebbiolo surrounded by the acidity; good wine.

Barolo from Elio Altare 2006

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

This is becoming increasingly popular down under with the spread of jamon, tapas serves, Iberian plates, El Bulli, manchengo and the wonderful wines of Spain (all varieties).

Australians have to be content with drinking Spanish-made Rias Baixas from albarino because the grape was wrongly introduced; now we have to sit it out until 2014 when quarantine has been completed, propagation done and the true vines start to flower.

Wines are reported in order of enjoyment and it was no chance that a wine from Roda in Haro figured highest.

Roda Reserva Rioja 2005; 14% (USD 140); ++++1/2; still dense, a little of the violets are wearing off, yet it remains so full and alluring; substance, just smells of fruit intensity, then oak-fruit complexity which gives you a nose full, power on, the taste was just starting to settle the fruit above the oak, a matured flavour which shows up the crunch and angular nature of tempranillo.

Roda Reserva 2005 Rioja

Overall a savoury endpoint which emphasises the enjoyment of this as you eat. Is 85% tempranillo, 9% graciano and 6% garnacha.

M2 de Matallana Ribera del Duero 2006; 14.5% (USD 95); ++++; dense purple colour, magnificent and startling to see, really meaning a serious drop here, the nose is a little reductive from aggressive use of barrel fermentation, lots of salami by-products which are non grape, lots of oak char (to charm Robert Parker), very heavily oaked and for a prolonged period, powdery texture meaning more time to settle here, big shaped wine, final flavour finishes with savoury notes. A plus.

M2 de Matallana 2006 Ribero del Duero

This is a Telmo Rodriguez wine; all tempranillo showing the big end of Spain.

Camins del Priorat 2008 (Alvaro Palacios) ; 14%; (USD 50); ++++; is the style alternate to the hefty oak-aged reds, this has the purples of youth but none of the tempranillo density of Roda and Rodriguez; it is tight showing more is yet to unravel to smell, what there is is very rural, scents of the forest, hints of cowyard, then a sweet entry, delightful softness and supple tannins, little dryness and more plush sensations, long flavoured.

Camins del Priorat 2008-entry level Alvaro Palacios

This is 60% carinena, 30% garnacha touched up with cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, a big blend at 50,000 cases, it sees very little new oak, and that bears out both on nose and palate, the structure being these traditional Spanish two remaining emphatic.

Tar and Roses Tempranillo Alpine Valleys/ Heathcote 2010; 14.5% (USD 20); ++++; inky but also very young, bright in the glass, huge fruit, huge oak influence, burlesque, fruit is on the sweet side, cake like, lots of tannin from oak, to the extent of creating a powder dryness in the mouth, excellent, can see the cold soak and maceration performed here, long ager, now a baby.

Good Aussie-Tar & Roses Tempranillo 2010

Made by Victorians Don Lewis and Natalie King. This is terrific value, and the 2010 vintage is a screamer.

Hercula Monastrell (Bodegas Castano) Yecla 2001; 14% (USD 25); +++; was super, now an aged russet colour with the edges browned yet the aroma was heaving with black fruits character, the unmistakeable genes of mourvedre/mataro, palate deep, sweet fruited and stern. A great mature example.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Bar Barossa Brisbane-shiraz haven

The Barossa-centric Purple Palate functions business housed inside Bar Barossa achieved its milestone – and for the occasion Barossa shiraz  producer Langmeil attended.

Purple Palate List

There was lunch for the big red crowd. Barossa’s artisinal smallgoods with a hefty hint of Barossa Deutsch traits started the scene with an unusual aperitif wine.

This was low alcohol (10.5%), residual sugar riesling  (22 g/L) from the Eden Valley (Live Wire Riesling USD 20), light, appley, crisp, easily destroyed with Linke’s smoked meats, but cleansing.

I enjoyed Langmeil’s Hanging Snakes Shiraz 2009 14% (USD 20) just because it was modern; today’s drink with a dash of white viognier to lighten the taste, freshen and make the wine accessible to more people not seeking “blokey” shiraz.

However, as half of the lunch audience were female, I got the feeling they were attending to drink the “blocky wines” such as Langmeil Valley Floor Shiraz 2009, 14.5% (USD 30), a huge wine with oak char and sweetness, cleverly added from American oak barrels.

Langmeil’s Orphan Block Shiraz 2008 14.5% (USD 50) always enthuses me as it contains some 100 y-o vine fruit from a block that was about to be consumed by local housing in 2000. The vines were transplanted: 500 were taken and 380 survived, and history preserved.

The blend also contains some Eden Valley shiraz grapes of equivalent age and origin.

Shiraz lovers' fare-eye fillet, Barossa flavour, ingredients

Langmeil’s great claim to fame is a vineyard thought to be the oldest shiraz vineyard in the world  -1843. Let others try to claim the mantle. Any older?

Langmeil 1843 Freedom Shiraz 2008 14.5% (USD 105) is true to its bones; big, syrupy-ripe grapes though departing from its younger shiraz brothers with more drying tannin; suffered from aging a long time in new French barrels which cause this drying sensation.

Box of Freedom-shiraz from 140-150 yo vines

If it gets you down, just eat, and the savoury effects of this wine then consume your palate instead, and that’s just the residual flavour hanging around. A wine with intrigue and interest.

Langmeil in Deutsch means Long Mile.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Stars: what are they to the Boireann winemakers Peter and Therese Stark who sell their wares annually during a short period of time when subscribers take up allocations. So the 2010 vintage was safely sold and banked!

The star meaning was Boireann now has five five- star winery ratings on end: afforded by the grand writer of them all in this country, James Halliday, in his Australian Wine Companion 2012 released in July.

The bunch attending this dinner were the converted: many enthusiastic baby boomer level collectors who take up their vintage allocation then give their bottles cellar resting time.

You see Boireann are great agers but only a small portion of people realise or know this because their ultra-high quality production, red only, is miniscule. There is a dash of white in the vineyard, viognier, grown to co-ferment with shiraz.

And the wines at this dinner were assorted vintages; meaning that Peter and Therese are sharing some older wines they considered to be looking pretty crash hot or failing that, simply their terroir examples, and the eager palates were having time like old friends do.

I went along to see what this no-fuss event was about finding there were no other scribes. Nor did I have to jot a note or  two but it rapidly became obvious these wines could not be missed.

Boireann Grenache 2004 13% (no longer sold); under cork, +++; russet/brown colour, very much the wine with terroir and maturity, rustic, damp grass and wet earth, all the funky tones that the grape picks up on its way to maturity, now there, palate very tight and soft, drying. Absolutely perfect with steak tartare-pairing raw meat and earth bombs.

This variety has since been pulled out due to bunch collapse in later years, and replaced with such interesting reds as tannat and brunello clones of sangiovese. A straight tannat has been made for the first time in 2011.

Boireann Merlot 2007 13% (no longer sold); also under cork, +++1/2; cherry/purple, great colour, has nose complexity and strength, tight and powerful tannins which have not loosened much yet, Pete says 2016-2019 is its drinking window, and I have no reason to think otherwise. Merlot with backbone, drunk alongside oxtail to prove its might.

Winter fare: oxtail pudding, pea mousse

Boireann Vigne Juveniles Shiraz Viognier 2008 14% (USD 26 ); ++++1/2; has perfume, has spice and attitude, lifted funk and nose crunch, alluring, makes you want more, big flavour entry and backbone of a wine just slowing moving along, but in no rush, powdery tannins now, one day these will close over. Young vine wine served with beef and stood up.

Boireann Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 13.2% (USD 29); ++++; good but not great colour, this brand often does amazing things with wine colour, smells tight, tastes tight, really layered and coiled up tannins + acidity+ flavour core bind it up to be a keeper-as you do with this brand. Don’t rush; also paired with rare eye and loved it, goats cheese and mushroom adding to the forest flavours. Pete says drink 2020.

Boireann Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Boireann Shiraz Mourvedre 2010 14.5% (USD 31); ++++; deep and pippy, currants and black fruits, struck match barrel ferment characters there now, potential to go funkier yet, enormous power in the mouth, backbone plus, drink in ten years, no earlier,made the triple cream brie running beside it look short flavoured.

Boireann Shiraz Mourvedre 2010

Dinner venue: Boucher (old converted butchery, bistro) restaurant run by ex-South Bank city chef Peter Carter.

Eye fillet, onion tarte, goat,mushroom

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Her easy talk captures the essence of her wines, the word choice is straight and to the point, no pomp, as Australia’s most recently acclaimed Master of Wine cares to be.

The family business is Moorooduc Estate – her’s is the marketing, and of course the elevated forms of “wine speak”, that these public encounters demand.

Lots of questions when flavours are less obvious and style and shape become the paramount tastes.

You see, twenty or so Mornington vintners had brought their drinks to Brisbane in Queensland’s south east, and all the wines were out to try.

I went straight for Moorooduc, an established, high quality, keenly directed small maker which specialises in chardonnay and pinot noir (Mornington’s staple diet), a little pinot gris and the occasional shiraz (assisted by global warming).

Moorooduc Estate Pinot Gris 2010 14% (USD38); ++++; this has a taut nose, pears yes, but not many, more the effects of barrel aging, also malo-lactic which holds it in, it’s palate is taut too, the flavour generous but the shape fearsomely tight; will it flower? Yes, in time, just that the racy acid gives it additional reason to tighten. Bright wine, single vineyard.

Select-Moorooduc Estate Pinot Gris 2010

Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay 2010 13% (USD38); ++++1/2; very closed, nose tight, restraint, restraint (normal), mealy from malo-lactic, that’s there, lovely freshness, kernels of flavour and coils of acidity, lemon, bright acids and drying finals. Fine, low alcohol is a plus.

Restraint-Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay 2010

Moorooduc Estate The Moorooduc  Chardonnay 2009 13% (USD 60); ++++1/2; nose complexity is enjoyable, worth many sniffs, each one changes, the result of screw cap removal, it’s a long drink and that’s where the oak sits on the palate (25% new), soundly structured and slowly developing; don’t drink yet.

100 dozen made from the a barrel selection, and some of the oldest McIntyre vines. Kate says drink 2016-2021; I can ony agree. This is life in the slow lane.

Moorooduc Estate McIntyre Pinot Noir 2009 14% (USD 38); +++; has pinot colour, nose advancing so it is maturing, a good sign, ready-to-drink I say, wild aromas, probably wild yeast effects, very compact style, some austerity, savoury, structured, exemplary cool climate characters yet bold. Fab, drink early.

Moorooduc Estate The Moorooduc Pinot Noir 2009 14% (USD 60); +++1/2; some cedar and sap-like fruit, smoke, complex, tight and austere palate, built with the basics but shines slowly, probably the year not wanting to make the wine look obvious, smells older than it tastes, effects from the bushfires. 60 dozen produced.

Authentic-Moorooduc Estate McIntyre Pinot Noir 2009

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

On the exhibitors day these were all out for producers to try at their leisure – quite early starting at 7.30am and finishing late morning.

I spent several hours tasting through. Why? Because the opportunity cost to be thrifty with time and dollars outlayed to taste such a collation was very low, and the experience resounding.

Diverse tastings are not put together easily, so when the situation presents, grab it with all the effort that you palate can accept.

Top wine of the Show was Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005-a museum product, probably now creating a headache for its brand manager, for the Seppelt brand has been diminished so much under the past Fosters reign that it is essentially only a Victorian table wine range.

Best of Show-Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005

The wine is exciting, freshy aromatic for its age, pale, hardly showing age, composed in its development, linear, mineral-bred and taut.

The growing conditions in south-west Victoria encourage the meanness that comes with this style-and consequently the slow development in bottle. In future, if you see a bottle, grab it.

Seppelt produced a similar wine from Eden Valley in 1984 which is still widely lauded amongst those that know.

Aside from local Mark Ravenscroft’s Ravens Croft Chardonnay 2009 taking gold in chardonnay, Penfolds brand did particularly well with chardonnay on several fronts. Best Chardonnay of the Show was Thomas Highland 2010 judged in the commercial class.

Best Chardonnay-Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2010

It’s competitors in the judge-off were from the mature class, Penfolds Reserve Bin A 2008 and the one-year-old class, Penfolds Reserve Bin A 2010, later disqualified for being cloudy.

Other Commercial class golds for chardonnay were Woolworths Cowbombie 2009 and the above-mentioned Ravens Croft.

Mature chardonnay to score gold was Devils Lair 2009, Wolf Blass White Label 2009 and  Penfolds Reserve Bin A 2009-a bit of a haul for Treasury Estates.

Pinot gris is increasingly under our gaze. The results took a new turn with the outstanding Wine Society Tasmanian Pinot Gris 2010 awarded gold, being pink. Now gris often gives brassy-coloured wines because it is a grey/brown grape yet this delightful example was highly praised.

A pinkie-Wine Society Tasmania Pinot Gris 2010

Quite often the pinot grigios of north-eastern Italy arrive with pink tinges, so instead of removing the colour as most Australian winemakers have to do, here it is looking naturally.

Vermentino had its moments too: Trentham Estate collected a gold the second year running, with La Famiglia Vermentino 2010, now a lovely, crunchy, savoury/tangy drink, while Golden Grove’s 2011 took a silver.

Trentham La Famiglia Vermentino 2010

Finally, one for those following the rise of new red Italian varieties in Australia. Warburn Estate 1164 Limited Release Montepulciano 2009 from the Riverina was an outstanding winner with this crunchy and savoury red with oozy palate features.

Warburn Estate 1164 Montepulciano 2009

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

And when it comes to the pointy end of the pinot world he is the “man” to aggregate the finest worth tasting in one easy swirl.

Greatest and Rarest Pinots

Brisbane’s newly-opened and chic Malt in Market Street was the venue of three flights of the pinot stars (served blind, wines known).

I write about these in order of preference – a habit when the better wines rock my socks.

And even for fear of being a little Francophobic, it was the Burgundies which split a clear division between their New World cousins but only on the basis of completeness, restraint and savoury feel. New World sticks out from fruit.

This is not a depth of flavour discussion because wines of Oregon, New Zealand and Australia have it in spades: oozy primary fruit, whole bunch character, oak charm, preserved fruit which eschews engagement, lots of juicy bits.

One New Worlder crossed the divide into the savoury and painfully understated arena – Beaux Freres from Oregon.

Plant also brought wines to back-up or for spare drinks in case of cork failure or calamity – which did not eventuate, so we drank the two regardless, and not to my suprise these were rippers.

Flight two

Richebourg Grand Cru (Domaine de la Romanee Conti) 2007 Vosne-Romanee; 13%; (USD 1500); +++++; 13,635 bottles; quite ethereal, shows significant oak aging as an aromatic character, shows some age yet the fruit is still primary, hints of pinot sap, palate concentrated with a mix of whole bunch, fruit juice, red fruits, then tight, fine, close tannin with great line, zippy acid and time for aging longer.

Richebourg (DRC) 2007

Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru (Leroy) 2006 Vosne-Romanee; 13%; (USD 1500); +++++; 6900 bottles; washed colour does not detract, cherry fruits and lots of it, oak cedar yet to settle down, fruit concentration sits besides the oak tannin, lots of long, lingering flavours as well as a very tannic palate, high acidity, still closed on the finish.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (Dujac) 2006 Morey St-Denis; 13.5%; (USD 335); ++++1/2: pale but purples; feint nose, candy, just so restrained, feline, sleek, fine, subtle, still in retreat after bottling, not forward at this stage, coiled.

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru (Bernstein) 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin; 13.5%; (USD 375); ++++1/2; 591 bottles; very restrained, spice, fragrant red fruits, hint of time in barrel, no more, very tight, very fine, shows lean and long, very clean finish which is complete, keep aging it.

Mazis-Chambertin (Bernstein) 2007

Beaux Freres Upper Terrace 2008 Willamette Oregon; 13.5%; (USD 250); ++++1/2; medium purple colour good, restrained nose, smells savoury, compact, not effusive, palate well flavoured but into savouriness and balance, tight, warm with lots of red fruits, pretty muscular at the end, a delight.

Musigny Vieille Vignes Grand Cru (Comte de Vogue)  2007 Chambolle-Musigny ; 13% (USD 750); ++++ ; 13,500 bottles ; youthful, closed up, damp earth, almond kernel, oak cedar, perfume, sap, then very tight palate, high acid directs it to fineness, powdery tannin takes it to minerality, very fine.

Richebourg Grand Cru (Hudelot-Noellat) 2007 Vosne-Romanee; 14% (USD 1500); ++++; maturing colour, meaty, lots of whole bunch, stems too, very aromatic and signs of additional barrel time, savoury nose, spice on palate, soft and silky, rather light bodied so alcohol not a worry, long finish with fineness.

Richebourg (Hudelot-Noellat) 2007

Bonne Mares Grand Cru (Bernstein) 2007 Chambolle-Musigny; 13.5% (USD 350); ++++; nose of the heavens, approachable, not, barrel ferment, new oak sweets, a really butch wine, layered with flavour and muscle, chewy but not tough, keep, all the weight necessary, add an extra half point.

Bonnes-Mares (Bernstein) 2007

Bindi Block 5 2006 Macedon; 13.5% (USD 125); ++++; 1800 bottles; best Aussie, clearly New World from the juicy primary fruit, jubey, probably whole bunch, highly toned oak sits, very bright on its freshness, fruity, palate has leanness and closure, still needing time no doubt, acidity subtle, red fruits skim the finish.

Pyramid Valley Angel Flower 2007 Waipara; 13% (USD 150); ++++; 600 bottles; best performed Kiwi, dense colour, almost unnatural; barnyard smells, best call it complexity, the natural yeast aroma too, herbal, whole bunch, plurality of winemaking, fine, wood weight, warm on the alcohol.

Pyramid Valley Angel Flower 2007 NZ

Ata Rangi McCrone 2006 Martinborough; 13.5% (USD 100); +++1/2; 720 bottles; very dense, lots of whole bunch, massive wine, sap pinot aromas too, complete, oak, fruity, big and masterful yet still fruity and under-developed.

Evesham Woods Cuvee J 2008 Eola-Amity Hills; Willamette; barrel selection, 13% (USD 100); +++1/2; lots of sap and inky aromas, primary fruit to the fore, has lots of nose interest, profound, compact fruit and concentrated, oak cedar, quite closed, drying from oak. A favourite American.

Evesham Wood Cuvee J 2008-USA

Bell Hill 2006 Waipara; 14.5% (USD 200); +++; 1956 bottles, is this really pinot with the monster colours, or are there steroids around, monstrous fruit preparation so over-the-top; could be shiraz; tarry oak and a massive final warming taste. Be patient here.

By Farr Tout Pres 2008 Geelong; 13.5% (USD 105); +++; light colour, whole bunch, perfume, leaf component too, nose pumps up to big things, palate still closed, sweet fruit but edgy on acid, is asleep.

There were three slim wines: Main Ridge Half Acre 2007, Bass Phillip Reserve 2007, and Chambertin (Bouchard) 2008 was too bretty to enjoy.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

I went along to the exhibitors morning tasting to see what enlightenment there was. This is Queensland largest and most influential wine show for the year.

Here I have chosen to review the wines of the two trophy winners.

The trophy for most successful Wine Exhibitor went to the Eukey Road producer, Symphony Hill Wines, in Ballandean and collected by principal Ewen McPherson. His winemaker, Michael Hayes, had won him a gold and six bronze medals.

GOLD: Symphony Hill Reserve Gewurztraminer 2010 Granite Belt; 12.6% (USD 27.50); +++++; has pale colour and a voluminous nose, spice and lavender, heady stuff typical of traminer with punch as this has, taste is composed and long, spiced, dry and enlivening. Grapes are sourced from a high elevation New England vineyard.

RQWS Symphony Hill Reserve Gewurztraminer 2010

BRONZE: Symphony Hill Reserve Pinot Gris 2010 Granite Belt; 12.6% (USD 33); +++; brassy colour which is normal, lots of pear and nice crunch, medium to full body, good flavour.

RQWS Symphony Hill Reserve Pinot Gris 2010

BRONZE: Symphony Hill Reserve Viognier 2009 Granite Belt; 14.9%; (USD 33); ++++; intense green, this is wild, it is heady with viognier highlignts-florals, ginger, spice, brute power of the ripeness, and tasting it just re-inforces the powerful bitter tangerine and oil flavours, big wine, drink with rich foods.

RQWS Symphony Hill Reserve Viognier 2009

BRONZE: Symphony Hill Reserve Verdelho 2010 Granite Belt; 13.9%; (USD 27.50); +++; is good greens, big punchy papaya aroma, and a full flavoured palate, grapefruit, a clean whisp of flavour and a good lasting impression.

RQWS Symphony Hill Reserve Verdelho 2010

Symphony Hill also took bronzes with two reds: Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2009 and Reserve Petit Verdot 2009.

The Corrigan Scudamore-Smith Trophy for the best Queensland wine of the RQWS, judged by all interstate and international judges (11) was awarded to Ravens Croft Chardonnay 2009 from Stanthorpe.

RQWS Corrigan Scudamore-Smith Trophy Ravens Croft Chardonnay 2009

GOLD: Ravens Croft Chardonnay 2009; Granite Belt; 13% (USD 33); +++++; fab pale colour, nose complete, some funk, complex mix of smoke, funk, citrus rolled into one, palate not obvious in fruit plumpness (at this level that is a fault), lots of derived flavours from the bottle, then lots of minerality and mild dryness. Good drink.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

And there were 12 judges (four panels of three tasting) plus the chief judge, Hungerford Hill consultant Phillip John.

After dark it was the turn of the judges to do some tasting over dinner with the main event convened by Phillip. About three weeks before, an email arrives with your allocated style (two bottles).

This year mine was Chablis so it had to be a Grand Cru of course, only the best to share. It turned out that the night’s major drinking was to centre around chardonnay, Rhone varietals and a little cabernet sauvignon.

The chardonnays got off to great start with my wine, Chablis Les Clos (Fevre) 2008; 13% (USD 114); +++1/2; this wine will take decades to come around, from the high acid year of 2008, pale, austere nose (no evidence of malo-lactic), cleverly concealed oak, racy, minerally to the third degree.

Chablis Les Clos (Fevre) 2008

Next in the bracket an equally exciting Burgundy, Meursault Les Genevrieres (Henri Boillot) 2007; 13% (USD 174); ++++; compact nose not giving much away, palate just lovely, juicy then dry from oak, but not oaky, long and interesting flavours, touch of funk then linear acidity, pretty full wine.

Meursault Les Genevieres (Boillot) 2007

Last was Lilydale Chardonnay 2008; 13.0% (USD 27); ++++; really on the mark as modern Australian stuff, pale, funk there, little oak and mainly complexity, a good dose of character, the palate a little peachy to give us the forward flavoured fruit but after that-excellent. And look at the price, what a steal.

A second bracket of chardonnay was even more beguiling. First was Brookland Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2004; 14.5% (USD 76); now tiring, going into the neutral flavour territory, oak still there but not a great deal more. Probably closed under cork.

Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay 2004; 14.5% (USD 90); +++; was not in good shape, the colour was simply advanced so the wine looked awkward, it has a punchy and slippery palate, and I thought I was drinking viognier. A big wine, but discussion around the table pointed to an old-fashioned habit of skin-contacting grapes at the crush-no longer done at the pointy end of chardonnay crafting.

The third was a revelation: Puligny-Montrachet (Leflaive) 2006; 13% (USD 133.50); +++1/2; heady, complex, pristine, pale, compact, drying out yes, but just a lovely palate, bright, talcy and drinkable (with the slipper lobster and mussel brawn).

Puligny-Montrachet (LeFlaive) 2006

The reds were even more exciting. The two Rhone-type brackets were killers.

Hermitage (Tardier Laurent) 2003; 14% (USD 126); +++1/2; great for such a stewy hot year, bristling with layers of flavour and substance, still tannic but a little juicy/porty too, fab shiraz.

Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette (Rayas) Reserve 2002; 14% (USD 51); ++++1/2; outstanding; grenache based, rest cinsaut and shiraz, massive flavour but a contained palate, obvious warm region tastes of leather, licorice and stewed plum, a gem to drink.

The third was another gem; Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Pierre Usseglio) 2008; 14.5% (USD 32.50); ++++; a big bold wine, still purple, very overt fruit as a grenache based blend, the rest, cinsaut, shiraz, mourvedre ; lovely close knit fruit and tannin, streams all over the palate with balance. Great.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Usseglio) 2008

Red bracket two was mixed: Stephen John Watervale Shiraz 2000; 14%; +++; now mature, browning, a big, bonoxy single vineyard shiraz with slippery mouth feel, little varietal definition but a great mature Clare Valley wine, nice to taste.

The standout was Gigondas (Domaine des Espiers) 2009; 14.5% (USD 34.75); ++++; fragrant and fruit saturated grenache on the nose, not the boiled sweets-type we find in Australia (Barossa Valley et al); just violets and red flowers, lovely wine made with care and little oak use which now shows (six months), the softest and fruitiest palate one could find. Take a while to locate a grenache/shiraz its parallel.

Gigondas (Espiers) 2009

Eileen Hardy 2005 McLaren Vale ; 14% (USD 88); +++; now smelling mature, lots of oak work which shows up with some oiliness, chunky and drying palate plus lots of rich jam flavours, looks to be tailing off and in need of earlier drinking. However expect it to suprise and hold for another decade. Have tasted smarter vintages such as 1998, 1999 and 2002.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

SwirlSniffSpit @ Era Bistro

The subject of the night was Shiraz – all were Australian save one from across the ditch. All were served in pairs with mini themes. Tweets went out continuously as each set of wines were assessed then drunk.

Great Western, Victoria featured strongly.

Bests Bin No 1 Shiraz 2009 (USD 27); 14.5%; +++1/2; rich nose of both oaks (American and French); has come together more since the Bests tweetup early in the year; just great flavour around a chunky, juicy palate-rare for a cool area wine.

Bests Bin 1 2009

Bests No 0 Shiraz 2008 (USD 65); 14.5%; ++++; great violet colour, cherry aromas then cedar, sexy sweet, lots of barrel ferment bits, long flavours, chunky oak at present but streamlined texture, drink 2018-2023!

Bests Bin O 2008

A pair of Queenslanders figured too.

Pyramids Road Shiraz 2009, Granite Belt (USD 32.50); 13.5%; +++; has great violet colour, really stands out, intense spice, flavour gamey and the fruit is sweet, spicy palate with silkiness and subtlety, lovely drink with purity.

Barambah First Grid Shiraz 2008, South Burnett (USD 31.50) is made by this author-was happy to see the SSS’s enjoy the wine in this context; it tasted well with the emphatic aspect being savouriness, which I pointed out to the group, and this being caused by extended aging on lees.

Barambah First Grid 2008

There were a couple of Victorians.

The Story Sableux Shiraz 2009, Grampians (USD 48.75); 14%; +++1/2; has lot’s of oak work; barrel ferment, some feral notes which are chic, syrupy texture from ripeness, flavour power, choc, mint fruit flavours which stay in the mind. Big stuff from a cool site.

De Bortoli Syrah 2008, Yarra Valley (USD 34.75); 14%; ++++; despite its brown colour (the heat wave year), lots of spice and interesting funk, loads of palate spice and more obvious savouriness, again that lees technique making the wine more drinkable. A terrific drinking sensation.

Then there were a pair from Western Australia.

Vinedrops The Collection Shiraz 2009, Margaret River (USD 21.75); 13.4%; +++; nice aromas, oak cedar from high toned barrels; and a lovely silky palate, very easy to swallow too, impressive.

Plantagenet Shiraz 2008 Mount Barker (USD 48.75); 14.2%; +++; spicy, earthy, forest floor nose, some reduction from the screw cap; now drying out where the oak shows, considerable acid, very soft.

The mixed bag comprised a Hunter and a Kiwi.

De Iullis Steven Vineyard Shiraz 2009, Hunter Valley (USD 43.50); 13%; +++1/2; was great, lot’s of warm, red fruits, some feral smells to give it character, a composed palate, leanness yet poise, clean and drying.

Te Mata Bullnose Syrah 2009, Hawkes Bay (USD 28.50); 13.5%; +++; simply smelt pretty, flower aromatics, nice currants too, the palate high acid or that effect, a soft, fine and silky swallow results. These styles capture some drinkers-an ultra cool climate for shiraz where the conditions allow it to ripen.

The final pair were South Australians.

Murray Street Vineyard Greenock Shiraz 2006, Barossa (USD 59.75); 15%; +++; chocolate fruit, lots of oomph and burning alcohol, twitches the nose, now drying yet a very compact palate of flavour and intensity. Not as big as it smells but aging.

Gemtree Obsidian Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale (USD 65); 14.5%; +++; big and juicy, the super ripe/dead fruit style; big all over and climbing out of the glass, lots of powdery oak from the tannin structure, syrupy texture effects from the high ripeness and winemaking approach. Wine for heroes.

Thought records!

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

On the subject of pinot noir; every by-the-glass smooch which had Oregon as the state of origin just kept on getting the ticks.

There was the odd Californian but most seemed too muscular for the dishes and food genres we tried; Oregonians finished with minerality and fineness while the Californians gave out tannin, sweetness and high-toned oak.

So to recount if that was still the case, local Brisbane, Queensland restaurateur from Two Small Rooms -Peter Willumsen – threw a dinner tasting which heralded some US pinot.

First starter was a porcini tart. The pair of starting wines selected were the Oregons: because they are expected to be leaner and more friendly towards a simple tart of mixed mushrooms, deliberately meant to make the dish fungal, just as the variety can be.

Cristom Sommers Reserve 2007; Willamette Valley, Oregon, (USD 90); 13.9%; +++1/2; looked good with its lightish colour which means pinot colour, smells of sap and mushroom, but it is stalk city (winemaker practice of including grape stalks in the making), oodles of whole bunch ferment smells so there was a lot of winemaking going on, and it is 44 months old; so a monster made and staying like that for a while.

Pinot in tights. Has 53% new oak, native yeast used.

Scott Paul La Paulee 2006; Willamette Valley, Oregon, (USD 84); 13.9%; ++++; deep colour which gets a bit alarming! But ok, big stuff, lots of oak chunk and char from barrel, done over with many winemaking ideas, though the notes say only 20% oak and ten months aging. The wine has plenty of volume yet no restraint, in the red berry mould, sweet black fruits too, so the palate flows on with lots of texture and length, be it the chunky style.

Pinot always means earing duck so Peter W did not let us down with the next flavours: grimaud duck breast, pinked, spanish onion as a tarte, duck liver as a parfait and jus gras. This is pinot pressure.

Clos du Val 2007; Carneros, (USD 30); 13.5%; +++; fairly plain nose, sappy not bright, has a mineral palate, very soft and pushing out the acidity towards the shrill end, but very much in the composed, light textured end of the pinot market with lots of approachability. 12, 384 bottles made.

Clos du Val Carneros 2007

It’s partner Kistler Cuvee Catherine Occidental Station Vineyard 2005; Sonoma Coast, (USD 150); 14.1%; +++1/2; a massive nose of chocolate, questioning how this related to pinot, palate, big, big, big, sweet and rich and leathery, a lumberjacks’ drink to really top the subtle sweets of duck flesh.

Kistler Cuvee Catherine Occidental Station Sonoma Coast 2005

The last pair of Donums were supplied by Two Small Rooms owner Peter Willumsen’s brother who works at the company in 24520 Ramal Road, Sonoma.

Pairing was with Milly Hill lamb rump, semolina dumplings, sherry braised shallots and pink peppercorn sauce. The sauce drew the lamb protein and wine flavours together.

Donum 2007;  Russian River, (USD 65); 14.4%; ++++; has heaps of colour, a great nose integrating oak and fruits, then lots of texture and forest floor aromas which transport into flavours, solid wine but a little mouth hot.

Donum Russian River 2007

Donum 2007; Carneros, (USD 65); 14.4%; ++++; was speaking to the dinner table in aromatic tones, very floral as pinot is sometimes, lots of winework (soaking before ferment), long barrel age flavours, lots of oak dryness and extra tannin, finishing hot.

Donum West Slope Carneros 2007

In the end, my traveller’s feelings stay the same; Oregon pinot can be fine yet also very boisterous, Californian generally are brutally big with the odd gem (finer wine); in this tasting it was the Clos du Val.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Shane is Pertaringa’s senior winemaker and brand ambassador – a property in the eastern hills of McLaren Vale, South Australia owned by Geoff Hardy and Ian Leask.

Pertaringa Adelaide Scarecrow Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (USD 20); 13%, +++; this is a relief to sniff, not more cut grass but worked sauvignon, some has been fermented on solids giving nose funkiness and mouth texture; rip-roaring to start then the steely sauvignon acidity rasp to remind us its sauvignon.

Pertaringa Scarecrow Sauvignon 2010

Pertaringa  Adelaide Stage Left Merlot 2007 (USD 22); 14.5%, +++; mulberry nose and mulberry fruit cake flavours, is well rounded so succulent now, drying out on the palate as bottle age comes into play. Plump, warm area wine, drink it now.

Pertaringa Stage Left Merlot 2007

Pertaringa McLaren Vale Understudy Cabernet Petit Verdot 2007 (USD 22); 15%; +++1/2; smells cedary, that must be the oak in sync, is medium bodied and easy to thrash around the mouth, juicy cabernet in its easy going role, 40% petit verdot puts in a little more spine ot the wine. I think “understudy” means playing second fiddle to shiraz!

Pertaringa Understudy Cabernet Petit Verdot 2007

Pertaringa McLaren Vale Undercover Shiraz 2008 (USD 24); 15%, ++++; deep colour, it even broods in the glass because it looks so good, has a massive nose too, sweet smelling, this is mighty good, Shane has kept it contained during making, it’s sculptured not hugely tannic or overblown, just complete and tight tannin threads, great wine.

Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz 2008

Pertaringa McLaren Vale Over The Top Shiraz 2008 (USD 41.50 ); 15%; ++++1/2; this is meant to be the brand’s best shiraz; essentially a bigger wine than “Undercover”, shows more new oak yet has a delicious palate, it’s a loveable wine, in your face too as McLaren Vale goes.

Pertaringa Over the Top Shiraz 2008

How are the wines travelling? Well the 2007 year was a tough one to make reds, a small production too, while 2008 was the year of the 10-day heatwave (temps above 40 oC); the 08 wines here not appearing to suffer, most being picked before the heat came (as they say). The wines however have turned out fine.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Of course, there are many fine European glass brands but few owners had turned their minds towards varietal and regional wine glass shapes as Riedel did. The proliferation of glass shapes by Riedel was a simple marketing theory soaking up the world’s wine production through differentiation.

When that was exhausted, the company moved onto new ranges based on new shapes and deluxe pricing – even stem extension.

The worst glass Riedel has ever released was the tumbler shape, often construed as a water glass but widely used as a wine glass. This shape tends to destroy the aroma of wine and also alters the wine palate – my tip is never to use this glass to drink wine. If  unsure, test a tumbler model alongside a stemmed glass of any brand with the same wine. The difference can be noted by anyone as it is that obvious.

Plumm glass is owned by Ambient Australia, a previous importer of Riedel glass in Australia for the past fifteen years prior. The company is based in Melbourne while the glass is designed in Australian; however, the crystal glass is manufactured in Europe.

I had an informative session at Brisbane’s The Villager Supper Club recently with Plumm’s Australian chief, ex-New York sommelier John Pfister, demonstrating the brand’s Type A and Type B super tasting and drinking glasses (pictures below).

John served a series of fine varietal wines – chardonnay (white burgundy), wooded sauvignon blanc (Marlborough), sparklings (Champagne Henriot NV and Rose NV), pinot (red burgundy), cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. In each case, I was given the option to enjoy these wines in either glass A or glass B.

Plumm Shape A

White Wine: The wider mouth glass A suited chardonnay and wooded sauvignon; no doubt the more restrained shape B would perform better for riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris etc where an aromatic power of the nose is everything. Lesson 1.

Champagne: Both glasses presented the two champagnes excellently, providing a good aroma and clear complexity from the long residence on yeast as the Reims-based house of Henriot does.

Bear this in mind the next time you reach for a flute. The Champenois will pour you wine from a coup, not a flute (American shape).

Red Wine: The pinot performed better in glass A; as pinot is a grape, it needs to display its perfume. Hence the wider glass made this the most enjoyable drink.

For cabernet and shiraz, there is a preference for the constrained glass B, although I would advise ardent red wine appreciators to test the range of Plumm shapes to determine their best experience.

Plumm Shape B

And forget about drinking good wine from tumblers.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

There are clutches of nearby makers from New England, Orange and Tumbarumba. But recently it was the set of Orange-based pinot noirs which caught my eye.

And such producers are giving the more heralded Yarra and Mornington brands some good style opposition.

The encouraging aspect about Orange is that vines are now passing the 10-15 years-age barrier that lifts the pinosity outcomes up a notch.

At the recent Taste Orange show there were a host of these.

I found a charry Brangayne of Orange 2009; 14.5% (USD 35); ++++; pulpy, streamlined and stunning; an unwooded Logan Weemala 2009; 13% (USD 18); +++, just great, brilliantly fruity and zesty; and a beautiful sappy style at Mayfield 2008; 14.5% (USD 39); +++1/2; lovely line and a touch of minerality with its age.

Then there was the older pinot Philip Shaw No8 2007; 13.2%; (USD 43); shown to me by a talkative Damian Shaw which was appreciated; this has a wonderful mature nose, enticing, foresty, aromatic, touch of sap, oak complexity and a lovely soft footprint, mineral, mouth coating and rewarding to drink.

Shiraz, cool climate style that is, meaning seamlessly soft, no great chunkiness expected of a warm region wine (such as Barossa), so the finish is pure silk and the remaining tannins softly coiled.

A relatively simple but effusive, unwooded shiraz from Philip Shaw, The Idiot 2009,  caused quite a stir earlier in the year by taking a major Sydney Wine Show trophy. That was a good result because it underlines just how aromatic and enticing shiraz can become in these growing conditions (without a lot of tannin). I tasted the next vintage 2010-another mouthful of fruit.

Philip Shaw No 89 Shiraz 2008; 13.5%; (USD 52.50); +++++; stood out like a beacon, still intensely purple, primed with spiced fruit and violets, aromatic red fruits with pristine notes, no sign of the oak yet it is there, then that lovely soft, juicy palate. Seamless.

Philip Shaw No 89 Shiraz 2008

The next shiraz was just as intriguing.

Cumulus Shiraz 2008; 14%; (USD 31); ++++; just pure fruit intensity with concentration written all over it; little flowers, cinnamon-clove aromatics and sweet, ripe berries; no smell of oak, the palate then gives you pure beauty, slippery fruit, caressing tannins and a finish of mildness. Easy drink.

Cumulus Shiraz 2008

I also discovered some new drinking flavours at Angullong Wines; Fossil Hill Barbera 2009; 14.5%; (USD 23); +++; great colour and accessible nose, blackberry pips which are a telltale of this variety; super-soft palate, renowned for low tannin, high acid as this is; an easy drink.

Also try this company’s Fossil Hill Sangiovese 2010 and Bulls Roar Tempranillo 2010.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

One fact binds them all together – that of elevation. The region is generally depicted as having all vineyards sited above 600 metres.

Now that effectively eliminates most other Australian vineyard regions save the Granite Belt, New England and Tumbarumba – all essentially east Coast Australia with Orange dotted in the Central Ranges of NSW.

These high elevation sites form part of the Great Dividing Range and their wines unmistakenly cool climate.

The Orange bunches stood out with riesling, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay whites, importantly pinot noir, then shiraz and the cabernet family with a little new Mediterranean stuff (barbera, tempranillo, sangiovese, savagnin etc).

This is an exciting place-the brands are small but at the high quality end.

Even the sauvignon blanc is not made in the simplistic Marlborough NZ mould, but the opposite, dumbing down the obvious and chasing wine texture. Hooray.

Here I review a range of whites.

Mayfield Vineyard Riesling 2010; 12% (USD 30); ++++; well how pleasant, single vineyard, pale colour, attractive smells in the flower spectrum, just heavenly then the most delicate palate, racy, mineral, lime zest (hints not overdosed), long and ultra-fine for light bodied wine, acid high of course, that’s the animal.

Mayfield Vineyard Riesling 2009

I met Charlotte Gundry, the GM who works with the family brand. Vineyards in Icely Road occupy 800-920 m elevation. The riesling enjoys the terroir, very old, weathered, gravelly soils with a north-east face contribute to its minerality and high raciness. That’s fine riesling.

Patina Riesling 2009; 12.5% (USD18);+++; I encountered an additional style, having one delicious nose, engrossing from the cool growing conditions and preserved aromas in the cool ferment, then the lovely line of sweet salivating acidity, yet plenty and deftly held low body weight.

Patina Riesling 2009

Patina is the business of Gerald Naef in Summerhill Lane, his vineyard is at 930 m, and his wines are distinctive.

Logan Weemala Riesling 2009; 12.6% (USD 16); +++; is decidedly a German parallel, pale lime nose, quite pretty too, then the differing palate, a dab of sugar (9 grams) and counter-balancing acids (7.5 grams), makes for a light wine with a fuller mouth effect from sweetess-very food friendly with Asian spice levels.

Logan Weemala Riesling 2009

Peter Logan is the MD; he has made a study of German riesling, mainly the Nahe and hence the off-dry style which grips the people making wine in those areas. White varieties are grown at 1000 m and reds at 850 m.

Angullong Fossil Hill Pinot Gris 2011; 13.5% (USD 24); +++1/2; is a good example from a tough season, just bottled, very exotic nose, yet restrained on the second sniff, gladly it is not called pinot grigio as it has the slippery palate, is not simple; has the nice texture which drinkers enjoy.

Angullong Fossil Hill Pinot Gris 2011

Ben Crossing is the owner: his vineyard is at the foothills of the mountain, Canobolas, at 600-650m.

Brangayne of Orange Isolde Reserve Chardonnay 2009; 14% (USD 30); ++++; is very good, perfume, oak nuttiness but restrained, the palate ever-so-long, in this climate the chardonnays are slow maturing, this included, crisp, bright and stylish.

Brangayne of Orange Isolde Reserve Chardonnay 2009

I met Marianne Brown; petite and polite, she described her wines’ distinctiveness and reason for enjoyment; vines are planted at 950-1050 m for whites, 850 m for red varieties.

Ross Hill Pinaccle Chardonnay 2009; 13%; (USD 30); ++++; smells succulent then goes towards restraint, has a long flavour, mid-palate subtlety, nuts, limes, fabulous length and still youth, something that only time can alter for the better, still young wine.

Ross Hill Pinnacle Chardonnay 2009

I met James Robson; his vineyards are at 900 m for pinot, 800 m other reds, and 750 m for sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. As is often the case, this is old apple orchard country, and the family winery is a renovated apple packing shed.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Italians in Queensland took on a full swag of events which celebrated all things Italian; culture was to the fore as were  vehicles, song and dance, dress and costumes, food, wines and water, Venetian glass and travel.

The most spectacular start was the illumination of Brisbane’s Story Bridge in green, white and red, while the historic building, Conrad’s Treasury Casino followed suit.

Author and wife Denise toast to the Illumination

My participation was a no brainer, partnering with Dolci Sapori’s talented Sicilian pastry chef Aladino Pozzebon by pairing his dolci with origins across Italy with my selections of sweeter Italian wines.

The Piemontese-based producer Gancia was another partner-of course why not – it produced Italy’s first sparkling wine in 1865, but not soon enough to toast the Unification so we do it today.

The pairings started with dry bubbles and savoury nibbles at the Commonwealth Bank Flagship Branch, 240 Queens Street in Brisbane. Even if you don’t bank with them, a trip inside enhances the new generation of banking experiences.

Gancia Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene Platinum NV (USD 32) 11%; +++; is lovely wine, unpretentious, pale, subtle, the grape aromatics restrained and delicate, closed fruitiness which expresses a little fresh yeast, then dry and pleasant, mild alcohol and a savoury end to a good drop.

Arancini pairing-Prosecco Platinum

Paired was arancini; served cold, Sicilian stuffed rice balls, rolled in breadcrumbs and in this case filled with a hearty beef ragu to provide the saltiness and the savoury notes to pair with this Prosecco. Bravo.

Gancia Moscato d’Asti 2007 (USD 26.50); 5.5%, +++; barely has fizz but comes over quite reserved to sniff, the taste is mild, grapey yes, but quite restrained, lemony from the fruity white moscato grapes but drying from its high acidity, 100 g/L sugar.

The Tuscan-origin dolce was Cantuccio di Siena paired with the moscato, Aladino’s rendition of an almond biscotti, served slightly soft due to his Sicilian touch, with  orange zest cleverly integrated into the biscuit.

Anselmi’s wonderful late harvest wine, I Capitelli made from gargengna in the Soave region (Monteforte d’Alpone where I have visited) was paired with Aladino’s Pasta di Mandorla, a soft envelope of dessert pasta enclosing an almond filling, tacky sweet to balance the racy wine acidity.

Anselmi I Capitelli 2008 IGT (USD 47.75); 12.5%; ++++; pale green, attractive, aromas of the rack drying process, honey, lemon zest and oak-influenced sweetness, rich and delicious in the mouth, more honey, good dryness and minerality from a variety which has high natural acid, 200 g/L sugar.

Pasta pairing-Anselmi I Capitelli

Anselmi has renounced the DOCG status of similar mass-produced wines known as Recioto di Soave, using the more general IGT naming and branding the wine production method as “vino da uva stramature” or wine from dehydrated grapes. This is non-botrytis, withered berry, oak aged white wine making.

Gancia Modonov0 2007 Asti (USD 26.50); 9%; +++; pale, fizzy, grapey and effusive, then light textured, fine, minerally, limey acidity abounds with an expression of the canelli grape without any adornments; pure pleasure, sugars 80 g/L.

Cannoli pairing-Modonovo Asti

The dessert pairing was the most famous dessert of Sicily, cannoli di ricotta, this being fried wafers filled with sweetened ricotta and choc chip in this instance; there are many variations of flavour profiles but they all highlight the importance of ricotta on this large island.

Gancia Brachetto D’Acqui NV (USD 26.50); 6.5%; +++; cherry coloured sparkling red, native to Piemonte, and here in the Acqui area, charming aromas of red currants, a totally juicy mouthful of sweetness and varietal black fruits, ends off dry from the tannin, brachetto grape, 80 g/L sugar.

Chocolate pairing-Brachetto NV

Chocolate and sparkling sweet red are bedmates; the pairing on this evening being Amaretto e Cioccolata; almond amaretto with skin on, moist southern style centre, chocolate dipped. Chocolate plus sweet red fruits is heaven.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Vietti winemaker Luca Currado from Castiglione Falletto

But I managed to drink his arneis and Langhe red-Perbacco on several occasions in local establishments.

However the best result was for Lucca to recently hit Australian shores with his wonderful dolcetto, barbera and nebbiolo, showing 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009 examples.

A visit to his winery and vineyards will have to wait until next October.

Luca’s Dolchetto was heavenly-fresh, juicy and really lively. Vietti Dolcetto  D’Alba Tre Vigne 2009; 13.5% (USD 40.50); +++; totally vibrant colour and aromas, really shrill, palate soft, juicy, acid angular but that’s due to its level and dominance over tannins, made in stainless steel. Tre meaning three-there are three vineyard sites-Monteforte D’Alba, Novello and Castiglione.

Vietti have spent considerable effort in rejuvenating the barbera grape away from nebbiolo heartland. Vietti Barbera D’Asti Tre Vigne 2008; 14% (USD 46.50); +++1/2  from outside Alba, in Agliano Terme, logically from the labelling being the Asti region. This looks and smells or cherries and violets; average colour density but above average personality. It’s fruity, soft, oak is hidden, the dryness is partnered by bitterness streams which are fruit intensity.

Vietti Barbera D'Asti 2008

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2007 and 2008; 14% (USD 49.50); +++1/2 and ++++; 07 has lovely youth and vibrance, lots of nose and soft, tight composed palate; 08 shows youth colours but aging on the nose, toffee, molasses, lots of character and early-formed complexity.

The company says these qualify for Barolo as the vineyard sources include Bricco Boschis, Ginestra, Mosconi, Liste, Brunella, Crocetta, Permanno di Fossati and Ravera di Novello e Scarrione. Obviously the better selections and vineyards become the Barolo.

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2008

Vietti Castiglione Barolo 2006 and 2007; 14.5% (USD 121.25); ++++1/2 and ++++; the 06, a great year, is just starting to go into maturity, florals, herbs, long and tight, long liver, silky now and will continue that way; 07 has perfume, light colour though huge palate; multiple layers of tannins and more, atypical to have such body as well, a monster drink now but will settle.

Vietti has three traditional single vineyard Barolos; Vietti Rocche (Castiglione Falletto), Brunate (La Morra) and Lazzarito (Serralunga D’Alba) 2007; 14.5% (USD 268); ++++; ++++1/2; and ++++; Rocche all dried herbs, violet, has minerality along the talc and chalk effect on tannins and acidity, finessed, silk, Brunate, sweet nose, barley sugar fruit intensity,  sweet again on palate, just wonderful flavours, Lazzarito is just great, again talc-like minerality but grippier tannin, long on texture and the flavours hang.

Vietti Single Vineyard 2007-Lazzarito

Vietti Single Vineyard 2007-Rocche

I cannot say much more other than to underline that Vietti’s nebbiolos are a knockout. And the labels colourful.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

And that’s because this variety has so much flesh and flavour, usually associated with wines of enormous or memorable colour depths. They are not tiny wines.

So I was quite concerned that a recent featured global shiraz tasting did not reach great heights, and it raised a couple of issues for wine buyers-that of how to recognise quality, and not to be sucked in by the label blurb (nor reputation).

When you make shiraz purchases, taste the wines before you buy them, don’t rely on recommendations as some will let you down, particularly if your sensory sensitivities vary from that of the recommender (who is often out for just the sale).

This 10 shiraz tasting list was not aimed at the best in the world, nor the worst, but just credible examples of global styles from reputable regions to show taste diversity.

My biggest concern was over the wine taint brettanomyces (brett for short) which prevailed through two of the three wines from the Rhone Valle y- a very poor indictment on French winemaking, and a waste of funds if you bought the wine.

And one can easily be caught – I tipped a bottle of reputable 1999 Rioja down the sink at a restaurant last Friday – the brett level was so obnoxious that smelling a wine resembling sweaty horse flanks and rear quarters was simply too much to handle. Bad wine.

Wines are recorded in order of enjoyment, though there was not a lot there! There were no starry drinks.

Cotes du Rhone (Mon Redon) Abeille-Fabre 2007 Fra ; 13.5% (USD 26); +++1/2; this wine was just so vibrant, cherry colour, not deep, volumes of red fruits, jubes, aromatic, then fruity-a sweet mouth followed on by a nice soft, drying palate with the fruit ever pleasant. The type of Rhone I wish to drink, grenache and shiraz blended.

Torbreck The Struie 2008 Barossa/Eden Valley AUS ; 15% (USD 52); +++1/2; very deep colour which signifies warm area shiraz, lots of evidence from aging in sweet oak, smells of suntan oil, volatile from long oak aging too, a huge, big, rich and round wine, lolly-ripe, great for punters but style-wise a “dead-fruit” wine made from very ripe grapes.

Warm area shiraz-Torbreck 2008

Stonecroft 2007 Hawkes Bay NZ ; 13.5% (USD 50.15); +++1/2; light colour, middling, nose clearly cool region-clove and pepper, minty too, oak subtle almost hidden, some chewiness then a silk-soft finish, not great, high acidity does not assist. A plain kiwi closed under diam.

Cool area syrah NZ-Stonecroft 2007

Hidden Creek 2008 Granite Belt AUS ; 13.5% (USD 32.15); +++1/2; medium red colour, cherry, enough American oak to peg this for a warm area example but underneath the fruit-buried-with-oak is cool region style, juicy fruit, drying but rich, lots of licorice. From Ballandean, a basic Granite Belter.

Cool area shiraz-Qld Hidden Creek 2008

Mt Langhi Ghiran 1999 Grampians AUS ; 14.5% (USD 37.50); +++1/2; red colour, brown edges for age, jammy fruit, alcohol hotness apparent, white pepper too, dry leaf also, dusty, touch of brett but not awful, palate very good and sumptuous, very fine style; shows that this region’s wines age well.

Two Hands Bellas Garden 2002 Barossa AUS ; 14.5% (USD 59); +++; deep colour, still retains some purples, a very good Barossa vintage, nose of syrup, ribena-juice drops, very sweet smelling as in “dead-fruit” styles where chasing late hang time pushes the fruit overboard, rich but syrupy-sweet fruit propped up with sweet oak, not a good syle but a “punters” drink. Not the fashion.

Porcupine Ridge 2007 Paarl RSA ; 14% (USD 24 ); +++’ medium colour, not great, browning, lots of French oak, leafy, slightly feral, juicy fruit, appears cool climate, lots of DMS and mulberry conserve aromas, very soft, some reductive flavours, oyster shell, feral, then bitters and black fruits; complicated wine with both pluses and minuses to weigh up. Drink it, maybe, closed under screw cap.

Warm+cool area syrah South Africa-Porcupine Ridge 2007

Penfolds Kalimna Bin 28 2000 McLaren Vale Barossa AUS ; 13.5% (USD 40.75); +++; light colour, not holding, bricky, remember the year was a lousy one for the region; here is an example, volatility shows, very solid nose, juicy, licorice, warm area style, aged American oak smell pervades, rich finish, soft palate, alcohol warm and now drying out. Basic big company blend-generous on the flavour.

Cote-Rotie (Domaine Jamet) 2005 Ampuis Fra ; 12.5% (USD 152 ); +++; very deep purple colour, a good start, smelly, bretty, lots of whole bunch ferment aroma, charry new oak, French of course, very drying/tannic palate which is accentuated by the brett which strips all the available sugars out of the wine. Has mouth sweetness but finishes hard, bad value and certainly a wine I could not drink, and feel dudded by the price.

Crozes-Hermitage (Gilles-Robin) cuvee Alberic Bouvet 2006 Fra ; 13% (USD 50.15); ++; aged colours, browns, charry oak, feral, lots of whole bunch aromas and brett, very reductive tastes and pervading brett palate, unusually high acidity for the reguion, very drying as a result and not a wine to spend much time in your mouth. Poor value, does not deserve shelf space.

So beware of what shiraz you buy: there are style traps out there.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

And after all they have been doing this for some time, probably over a decade.

Now it is so obvious that they had to do something further than just talking. New Generation Hunter Valley has been born amongst the Pokolbin boys.

The makers are De Iuliis, Hook, Margan, Meerea Park, Mistletoe and Thomas. The guys took their wines on the road dropping in at as many surf clubs as they could gather between Sydney and Noosa recently.

I caught the new vibes at The Surf Club in Southbank in Brisbane.

David Hook Pinot Grigio 2010; (USD 19.25); 12.5%, +++, juicy nose, pale and fresh, good slippery texture and powerful flavour. A wine style that has been around a long time, from the Adina vineyard in Lovedale Road planted twenty years ago.

David Hook Viognier 2009; (USD 26.75); 14.5%, +++1/2, heavenly aromas of the grape-ginger and melon, the palate solid and full, just as viognier is, more full-bodied than today’s chardonnay, a big elixir, and this finishes fresh and very drinkable. Aged in old barrels where the variety enjoys the aging without obvious oak ingress.

David Hook 20 yo vines Shiraz 2009 Pothana Vineyard

Thomas Six Degrees Semillon 2010; (USD 23.50); 9.5%, ++++, as a fresh and zippy white this is outstanding, a competitor for the FGR riesling styles coming out of Tasmania (forty grams residual), early picked and full of lime juice expressions as a wine finished at 42 grams/litre residual.

Styles similar are the kabinett rieslings coming from the Mosel and Rheingau. “Thommo” feels free to innovate, and this would be great with sichuan style chicken where the chilli heat needs quelling.

Since last reviewing Thomas Wines there has been a profusion of single, select vineyard shiraz-Sweetwater 2009 and Motel Block  2009 now join his flagship Kiss 2009, and then there is the blended shiraz, DJV 2009.

Motel Block was a vineyard planted in 1969 by the Sydney notable John Walker, with the grapes more recently going to a corporate buyer but now in the hands of a specialist who will give them a lot more love.

Thomas Sweetwater Shiraz 2009; (USD 37.40); 13.7%, ++++1/2; good attractiveness in the glass, freshly aromatic from its new oak, including American, great mouth sweetness, fruit char, black fruits and the delicious softness of Hunter shiraz made in the most modern vein.

Thomas Sweetwater Shiraz 2009

The Eather brothers of Meerea Park were there with their newest reds plus smart semillon and chardonnay.

Meerea Park Hell Hole Semillon 2010; (USD 26.75); 10.9%, ++++; very pale, very lemony, very taut as we expect for this variety from this region-of coarse it’s the hallmark variety. This has fineness and puckering acidity that matches it with a freshly bbq’d crustacean; just a must.

Pokolbin when translated in an Eastern European language, Polish I think, means “hell hole”.

Meerea Park Alexander Munro Semillon 2006; (USD 37.40); 10.5%, ++++1/2, shows how these taut examples age, and does it well. This is a touch cheesy, semillon speak for age character, still nose restrained, then taut with a lash of honey to recognise some age. Still young wine.

Meerea Park Hell Hole Shiraz 2007; (USD 53.40); 13.6%, ++++, looks brilliant, holds its purple colour, is rich yet medium bodied, lovely savoury sensations, but soft and easy, the fruit keeps toying with the palate, then it finishes taut. Outstanding wine. Made with 40% new barrels, 40% whole bunches yet inky wine.

Meerea Park Hell Hole Shiraz 2007

Keep surfing with the boys from New Generation Hunter Valey-its all serious stuff.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au